Housing

Housing for wildlife undergoing soft release or held in long term care should be as natural as possible, predator proof, escape proof and provide an appropriate and comfortable environment.

Kangaroos and Wallabies

Yards should be as large as possible (a minimum of about 500m2 for kangaroos) to allow the animal room to stretch out and exercise. Fences should be at least 1.8m high, ideally with 0.5m overhang outwards and 1.0m flat on ground on the outside to stop dogs or foxes burrowing underneath. Electric fencing is also recommended to keep out predators.

Avoid sharp projections or corners and preferably fence straining wires should be on the outside of the fence. Ideally a second outer fence should be added, with bushes between the two fences providing screening. Screening can also be provided by lining the inner fence with a translucent material such as shadecloth, hessian or brush. Incorporate native trees and bushes in the pen and protect plants you do not want eaten or destroyed.

Feeding stations should be off the ground and ideally on concrete to aid cleaning and ensure good hygiene. Water troughs should be untippable, eg concrete stock troughs or large bowls held secure in old tyres. Water should be clean at all times.

Provide shelters against inclement weather and also for security. A lean-to, as shown below, is suitable as it allows for a quick escape for the animal.

Woylies and other small Macropods

Woylies can climb over or burrow under a wire mesh fence. Their yard therefore needs to be enclosed at the top with wire mesh and surrounded at the base with concrete or buried wire.

Woylies are nocturnal and require shelters or hollow logs to hide in during the day. Include leaf litter for nesting.

Being a smaller animal, their enclosure does not need to be anywhere as large as that required for kangaroos or wallabies. However it needs to be secure against predators, including foxes, feral cats, birds of prey and snakes.

Bandicoots

Aviaries are ideal for bandicoots, and most bird aviaries will suffice. However, the addition of solid walls to a height of at least 0.5 m is strongly advised. The floor of the aviary needs to be dig-proof, eg concrete slabs or wire with soil on top. Cover with leaf litter and provide hollow logs or lengths of PVC pipe buried in the soil. Food and water bowls must be very sturdy as they will inevitably become upended. Always house only one bandicoot in each cage or aviary, as they will fight and could inflict serious injuries.

Bandicoots stress in captivity, so release should be as soon as possible.

Brushtail and Ringtail Possums

Most bird aviaries will be suitable for possums. The aviary should be furnished with plenty of well-secured natural branches and logs to climb on, and some branches covered in leaves to provide screening. Hollow logs or nest boxes should be placed high up with branches leading to the entry. Food and water containers should be solid, tip-proof and cleaned daily. It is recommended that only one Brushtail possum be housed per aviary, especially with males. Occasionally some females will cohabit, but separate nest boxes should be provided and the animals’ behaviour observed nightly in the early stages.

Ringtail possums are not as territorial as Brushtails and, being more social, three females and one male can be housed together, as long as they each have a separate dray or log. A suitable dray can be built from two hanging baskets, complete with coconut fibre liners, tied together. One wire, plus a piece of fibre, is cut out to create an entrance. The nest is filled with peppermint leaves and the dray hung within the aviary with a branch leading to the entry.

Pygmy and Honey Possums

Large hospital boxes with a perspex front are ideal for these possums, as extra warmth may be required in the winter months. However, with front opening hospital boxes, there is the problem that healthy possums can escape. An aquarium may be a suitable alternative. Set up the box or aquarium as natural as possible, with climbing branches, leaves and finch size nesting boxes.

Small Dasyurids

A good sized aquarium is ideal for these species. A suitable close fitting lid can be made to provide security and ventilation. Landscape using fine sand (not builder’s sand), leaves, bark, rocks, grass tussocks and hollow logs. Finch size nesting boxes make excellent hideaways. Food and water bowls, whilst small, still need to be solid to avoid tipping.

Echidnas

Sick or injured echidnas can be housed temporarily in large dog crates and should be released as soon as possible. Do not provide artificial heat as the body temperature of echidnas fluctuates daily and they are capable of lowering their body temperature to a state of torpor.

Adult echidnas are difficult to keep in captivity as they will climb, dig or tear their way out of a wire enclosure. In the process of escape they can damage their sensitive beaks.

Echidnas are solitary animals and should be released back into their home territory.